Gayus Wood: March 2014

Thursday, March 6, 2014

Get organized! Canned goods dispenser

Junk month

All this month I will be featuring storage and organization projects. If you have anything youd like to share, let me know!

January is a perfect time to start anew and spend some time organizing stuff. It is actually one of the more popular resolutions. And unlike "drop 30 pounds", organizing is easy to dive into and the rewards are much quicker!

Heres a project my wife has been wanting me to make for some time. We have a shelf on which we store canned food and it is always a mess. Somehow the cans always manage to intermingle, making it difficult to find what we are looking for.

I spent a lot of time getting back into SketchUp: I havent used it in a while. (Its one of my resolutions!) So while I cant say its the best plan in the world, it should help you to build this. I hope to really improve this year. If you want to make the dispenser to fit into a smaller space, just eliminate a couple of the dividers and scale it back.

Sketchup file

PDF file.

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Contemplating the Chimney

Thats me standing in the machine room right in front of the new doors... but before any of that happens I have to smash out that darn chimney!

What purpose does woodworking still serve in modern art and craft

What purpose does fine woodworking, whether you insist it "art" or "craft", still serve in the modern, after-Warhol, post-internet world?
From a strictly engineering/manufacturing point of view, objects of cut and assembled wood serve a niche function. For many applications -home building, cabinets, etc.- woo is inexpensive, durable, and light enough to be the best material. Sure there are more space age materials which could be used to make far more durable cabinets and better insulated walls, but wood (and the labor required to shape it) are often far cheaper. But this niche no longer covers products that are far easier to construct in newer materials. At one time toolboxes were universally made of hardwood, but today almost anyone can buy a cheep toolbox to fit their specific needs, built of plastic, aluminum, or steel and as a result being much lighter and stronger than any wood duplicate. Indeed, as materials technology continues to make lighter/stronger materials more cheaply, the engineering niche wherein wood is the best material will keep shrinking.
Related to this is also the psychology wooden objects bring to bear. Wood, in its texture and appearance, appeals to a great many people. For thousands of years, the heft, feel (and smell) of carved hardwoods have been associated with wealth. And interiors constructed of polished wood often have a calming effect on their inhabitants. Products made of wood appeal to people in a way that increases their value (even when using another material might be more logical).
And of course the act of working with wood or owning it, connects one to all those who have come before him who have done the same. Woodworking appeals in its ability to place each of us (lone individual forms of protoplasm) within a greater sense of history and culture.
But in a world where all art is going to be instantly given copious connections and references the moment it is shown (try placing an image of a sculpture on the internet that will not evoke dozens of comparisons and links to remotely related work), is it now ever necessary to use a material to relate to the past again? And in an era in which sarcasm or irony in a work seems an essential, is making an object out of honest, undisguised wood inappropriate. Today it seems far more apt to make something out of steel that carefully counterfeits wood-grain, or make wood that is smoothed and painted to resemble clean enamel.
Can one still create a modern art-piece out of wood?

Old Ways of Working Wood a review

Id like to recommend a fascinating book I picked up at the library last week: Old Ways of Working Woodby Alex W. Bealer. The author clearly states his position on modern woodworking in the opening chapter:

"The machine, not the craftsman, dominates woodworking today. The result has been an artistic tragedy."

Those are some pretty strong statements. Are we, as power tool enthusiasts fooling ourselves into believing that we are actually creative, let alone artistic? Are we merely button pushers and no longer craftsmen? Sadly, as a confirmed power tool user, I agree with Bealer — to a point.

Push-button woodworking

It takes no particular skill to rip a board on a table saw. Im pretty sure monkeys could be trained to do it. My miter saw hacks out 45 degree angled cuts with a positive click stop on its table. I push a button and it cuts with relative precision. My benchtop planer is the ultimate example of push button technology in my shop. I stick a board in one end and it comes out flat and thinner on the other end. I dont even have to push the wood through: rollers pull it through at a constant speed. Its produces a loud, almost frightening scream letting me know whos really the boss. Most of the finesse required to use these machines involves continually tweaking them so that they run straight and keep doing what they are supposed to do.

In todays shop, we solve woodworking problems by making jigs and figuring out countless ways to best exploit the machine. In a sense, we are slaves to the capabilities and limitations of our machines. Moreover, if a certain power tool doesnt provide the results we desire, we go shopping for a bigger or better machine that will. If we want to create a certain router profile, we buy a pre-made bit that will suffice. Or settle for one thats close enough to what we envision. Want to make mortises? There are machines that bore perfectly square holes. At what point are we no longer working the wood, and just cutting out dough with cookie cutters?

Woodworking once required working wood

Bealer points out that all of this has, for the most part, come about within the past hundred years or so. Before the 20th century, a man literally worked wood, starting with the tree itself. He understood the growth of trees and had knowledge of the ones surrounding him. Building with wood began by felling the tree. From there the woodworker would hew and split the wood. Saw it, plane, bore it, chisel it, turn it, and cut joints. A craftsmans imagination wasnt limited to the tools he had on hand or could buy. If he needed, say, a specialized plane for something he dreamed up, he made his own. Woodworkers viewed their tools as highly personal objects and saw them as extensions of their own hands. Each project was unique because the craftsman was intimately involved with the wood.

Each chapter of Old Ways of Working Wood describes in great detail each of these traditional woodworking techniques. It is educational and at times, awe inspiring. Would you know how to correctly fell a tree with a single ax? Ever used an adz? Bealer has learned these methods from people who actually use them and manages to share it all in a lively, easy to read manner.

So where does this leave us?

Using power tools doesnt diminish my joy of building woodworking projects. In fact, power tools increase my pleasure, because I dont have to spend years as an apprentice honing skills that can only be learned through repetition. Power tools enable anyone to become a hobbyist and create things. In the past, I suspect woodworking want much of a hobby. People devoted their lives to it because they needed to. But are we artists? Most of us probably arent. But neither were most traditional woodworkers. They built things they required.

Old Ways of Working Wood makes me want to learn to use hand tools and really get in touch with the materials I use. Its inspiring. But the reality is, I dont have the time to start from scratch. I am a product of the 20th century. And here is where I find disagreement with Alex Bealer. My table saw may not be an extension of my hands, but it is an extension of my imagination. And Im perfectly cool with that.

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

Building a Bookcase

Hello there!

Tonight I thought Id share a little of what has been keeping us busy upstairs. Ive mentioned before that in addition to remodeling our daughters bedroom, were also remodeling the upstairs landing area, which we use as an office.

BEFORE:

This is what the landing looked like when we moved in. Ive always referred to this area as the "dark cave". Basically the landing area consists of two pathways on either side of the stairwell and they look identical. The opposite wall is where we have our desk, but this pathway sees more traffic since Jillians bedroom entrance is on the far wall. Because of the traffic and the narrow aisle, when remodeling we wanted to eliminate any furniture on this wall and use all the room we could in the eaves. For a while now weve had the idea of building recessed bookshelves, not for pretty things, but as a functional piece to store all the girls books, our books, files, and office supplies.

The first step was cutting out the wall. You can see in the corner that we saved all the bead board to use later on.

Look at this 2x4 (a cross brace in the eaves) Justus pulled out! You can still see the bark and a vine. Its fun seeing what wood looked like 80 years ago!

Justus then began the process of framing everything in. Our plan was concealed storage in the middle with a barn style cabinet door and a bookshelf on each side of the door. To increase the storage capacity, the cabinet area in the middle is twice as deep as the bookshelves.

Here is where Justus used the bead board... he cut it to size and used it for the back of the bookshelves. As with any changes we make in our house, our goal is always that it looks as original to the house as possible. By using reclaimed materials, it definitely gives the feeling that this was already existing built in storage (at least I hope!).

Now Justus began putting up trim and the shelves. When putting up the trim, he used the same trim design that already exists in other areas of our house so that everything looks uniform.

Im painting everything upstairs white (shocking, I know - laugh), but we loved the idea of having a few natural wood pieces to match the original wood doors. This is where the shelves came in. I wish so badly I had a before picture... Justus actually disassembled a wood desk we had that we no longer needed (because he also built us an 8 long desk that is attached to the wall on the opposite side, which Ill share soon), and cut all the shelving from it . I love this detail! Best of all, I had scored this desk a while back for $10, so this really saved us some money! All I had to do to the wood was apply a thin coat of poly.

Next Justus built the cabinet door. I saw a picture in the recent Country Living magazine of a cabinet door in an old home that looked similar to this... I knew the design would be just right so I took the picture to Justus and asked if he could build me a door like it. I love the way it turned out... and Im so happy he loves to build (smile). (Note: we have a deal... he builds, I paint! And he is way ahead of me!) We selected barn style hinges.

AFTER:

I am thrilled with the way this turned out. It is wonderful having plenty of room for our books and office supplies. This area upstairs will also be our schoolroom in the future, so extra storage is a must!

Here is a close up of the shelves. (Youll have to excuse my poor photos... it is very hard using natural light here to get good photos because there isnt much of it!)

By far though, my favorite thing is having an entire portion for the girls books. They love to read (we dont have a TV, so the girls really enjoy their books)!

Here is the view from the other side. You can see I still have a lot of painting to do and the floors to finish, but its exciting seeing some progress! I thought you might enjoy this little transformation.

Hope this finds you well!

Tray in Curly Ash Walnut and Cherry

This functional piece is available in various woods and can be sized to meet your needs.

Cabinet Plans 2 Door Wall

These cabinet plans simply add doors to the open wall cabinet. The beauty of building cabinets using the 32mm system is that the box (or cabinet carcass) is the same whether the cabinet is open, has drawers, doors, or any combination thereof. And just like the open wall cabinet, the size can be adjusted to fit your room perfectly.
Doors As usual, I dont stray from my general affinity to melamine. In this free kitchen cabinet plan, the box and doors are listed as white melamine with PVC edge banding. This is a durable combination, but doesnt contribute much character to your finished cabinets.

Heres where your basic cabinet can take on its own personality and really show off your creativity. There are nearly an infinite number of ways to customize your cabinet doors.

They can utilize simple plywood slabs, raised or recessed panels, carved solid wood, super durable thermofoil, inlaid veneers, varied grain directions, and paints or different colored stains. Cabinet doors styles are only limited by your imagination, so experiment and make them truly your own creation.

There are a few things to watch out for if you choose something other than a slab door with 0.5mm thick edge banding for your cabinet plans. First, the cutlist shows dimensions for the door before edge banding is applied. If you arent using 0.5mm thick edge banding, then you need to use the dimensions from the door layout elevation.

Basically, allow a 3/8" (10mm) gap (called a reveal) at the top, 1/16" (1.5mm) reveal at the outside edges of the cabinet box, and 1/8" (3mm) reveal between the two doors. The doors fit flush to the bottom of the cabinet. This will keep the door at the correct size for proper hinge clearance.

Next, try to stick with a door that is pretty close to 3/4" (19mm) thick. Most concealed euro-style hinges are designed to fit a 3/4" thick door panel. If you go much thinner or thicker than that, you may have trouble with the hinges fitting and problems with the door opening and closing properly.

Finally, when using five-piece (raised or recessed panel) doors, the stiles (vertical pieces of solid wood) need to be wide enough for the hinge to fit. Its okay to make the stiles narrow, but then you will need to use a smaller hinge like the Blum Mini Hinge.
Hinges I cant say enough good things about using three-way adjustable, concealed, euro-style hinges. They make door hanging and adjustment very easy. Because of their opening geometry, they also allow two cabinets to butt directly together without the doors binding. The gap between the hinge edge of two doors on adjacent cabinets really does only need to be 1/8" (3mm).

When buying hinges, be sure to get both the hinge and the mounting plate, since they are often sold separately. If youre using full system holes, then an Expando dowel mounting plate is a great way to go.

The Expando dowels are very strong, fit into 5mm system holes, and dont damage the system holes like euro screws do...just in case you make a mistake. If you arent using full system holes, then a screw-on mounting plate is your best bet.

For the hinge itself, the cabinet plans show a pair of 5/16" (8mm) holes in addition to the 1 3/8" (35mm) hinge cup hole. This design is for a press-in hinge arm. The press-in style uses a dowel that is similar to the Expando dowel, but is actually designed to be pressed in by machine.

It can also be easily tapped in with a hammer and small block of wood. The hinge can then be removed and reinstalled several times without damaging the door. This is a nice feature if you want to fit the hinges first, then remove them to finish the door with paint or lacquer.

Another good way to mount the hinge is to use a screw-on hinge arm. In this case, omit the extra 5/16" (8mm) holes on the door and just drill pilot holes for #6 wood screws. I actually prefer the press-in style for the ability to remove and reattach the hinge several times.

Repeatedly removing and reinstalling wood screws tends to weaken the wood fibers in the door. If you only plan to do it once or twice (say for finishing), then its okay. Otherwise you might be better off sticking with the press-in hinges.

Buying Hardware Online Some of the links on this site take you to product pages on Amazon.com, so just a quick note about buying cabinet hardware from Amazon. There are two or three major internet cabinet hardware suppliers that sell their products on Amazon. They all have similar offerings, good reputations, reasonable prices, and decent shipping rates.

If you want to save a bit of money, try to find one supplier that has everything youre shopping for, and place your entire order with them.

The listed shipping rates are often not just for a single piece of hardware. It might cover everything in an entire order, up to a certain dollar amount. So you may be able to get a great deal on shipping by combining your whole order under one supplier.

Drawing File For a more in-depth discussion of euro-style hinges, take a look at the notes on the 2 door base cabinet plans. Otherwise, just click on the link below. If youd like to download a copy to your computer, right click then "save-as". Either way, youll need the Adobe reader to view the file.

View or Download "2 Door Wall Cabinet 30W x 12D x 30.5T"

Return from 2 Door Wall Cabinet Plans
to Kitchen Cabinet Plans

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FAIL!

A couple weeks ago I set out to make a really fun and simple wooden toy. Its a little ladder on which a block flips all the way down the rungs.

I fussed with it for the better part of two days before finally admitting defeat.

Challenge

Heres my challenge for you. Shoot a video showing me how to make this and get it to work. Show me where I erred and things to look out for. Post your video as a video response on YouTube. Ill send out a Mere Mortals t-shirt to the first person to do so.

My apologies for this lame video, but heres how far I got. I hope its enough to get you started:

Monday, March 3, 2014

I made a handout for Mondays demo

In this case, I will give you a handout so you can pay attention to the demo without taking notes. Please read before Mondays class. I will make copies for everyone.

Shannon Wright
Woodworking 168
Project 1: Sample Joints
We are using 5/4 (Five Quarter) Poplar boards, 16 feet long.

Milling Your Wood on the Jointer and Planer

What you need:
Starrett combination square (never drop one of these!!!)
Two jointer-specific push sticks
Key to unlock the jointer “on” switch
Pencil for marking
Safety glasses or face shield

1) Cut a 36” length of poplar on the radial arm saw. Let’s save all the 48” pieces that remain, for another project.
2) Use the combination square to “square up” the fence of the jointer.
3) Set the infeed table to remove between 1/32” and 1/16”.
4) Assess “grain runout pattern”, cup and bow of your piece of wood, and joint one face using two push sticks designed for the jointer.
5) Move your whole body with the wood—do not stand in a fixed location and lean forward.
6) Put the letter “j” in pencil on the jointed face so you can identify it later.
7) Joint one edge of your piece of wood, considering the grain runout pattern to avoid tearout. Keep your wood very tight against the fence and do not rock the wood. Mark it with a “j”.
8) Measure the thickness of your wood at each end and set the thickness planer to 1/16” less than the thickest dimension
9) With the jointed side down, assess the grain runout direction by looking at the edge of your board.
10) Place your wood, with the jointed side down, into the planer. You will need to give it a solid push to engage the infeed rollers. Remove your wood as the rollers feed it out the other side.

Ripping Your Wood on the Table Saw
What you need:
Rip blade
Push stick
Yellow anti-kickback roller
Phillips-head screwdriver
Table saw arbor wrench
Starrett combination square
Safety glasses or face shield

1) Check that the power is off at the circuit breaker
2) Remove the table saw insert, then remove the nut and washer from the saw arbor and put the rip blade on, with the teeth facing you, making sure not to bang the blade against metal.
3) Put the washer on and tighten the nut.
4) Replace the blade insert
5) Raise the blade as high as it will go, and place the Starrett square tight against the right side of the blade. If you see light at the top or the bottom, adjust the blade tilt wheel below until no light is visible. Lower the blade.
6) Bring your wood up against the blade to set the height of the blade. Raise or lower the blade until it is ¼” or one carbide tooth’s height above your wood.
7) Lock the lock knob on the blade-height adjustment wheel.
8) Bring the blade guard down over the blade.
9) Attach the yellow anti-kickback rollers to the mounting plate and tighten the screws with the Phillips-head screwdriver. It should be situated immediately behind the blade guard.
10) Pull the rip fence away from the blade to allow you to place your wood under the yellow anti-kickback device. Adjust the pressure until it puts up good resistance, but will not require excessive force to push your wood through.
11) Move the rip fence to set it at 3.5 or 4” (dependent on the width of your board.) To do this, loosen the lock lever, bump the fence over with the heel of your hand until the crosshair reads the desired number on the ruler. Lock the fence-lock lever.
12) Adjust the yellow anti-kickback device side-to-side until it is in approximately the middle of the intended cut. It MUST be located to the right of the blade, or it will defeat its purpose.
13) Remove all wrenches and tools from the work area
14) Turn on the power at the circuit breaker.
15) Put on a face shield or safety glasses.
16) Make your cut. Then cut another piece the same width with the remainder.

Proper Form When Ripping Wood on the Table Saw

Make sure no-one is standing or walking behind you.

Stand to the left of the rip fence and slightly to the left of your piece of wood.

Don’t focus your eyes on the blade, but on the juncture between your wood and the rip fence.

Direct solid pressure forward and into the fence.

Never take your hands off your piece of wood; it can and will kick back at you.
When the end of your piece of wood is fully on the table, you may pick up your push stick, without letting go of the wood.

Keep the push stick close to the rip fence and push your wood ALL THE WAY PAST THE BLADE. If you stop pushing before the wood is past the blade, your wood can and will kick back at you. The anti-kickback pawls on the “splitter” will catch your wood, but you don’t want to make them do their job.

Do not attempt to push the “scrap” piece (left-side piece) of wood past the blade. Only push the piece that is against the rip fence.

Do not allow fellow students to “help” you by pulling your wood through at the other end. You are the only one who should be performing this operation. Helpers cause misunderstandings and dangerous situations.

Turn off the saw as soon as you have pushed your wood through.
Let the blade come to a complete stop before collecting your wood.

Rikon Rolls Out New Contractor Saw

If you enjoy woodworking then you probably also suffer from an addiction to tools. Whether you collect hand planes or seek out the latest and greatest in power tools, our expert tool addicts will keep you in the loop with news, reviews, and commentary on the latest in woodworking tools.

New: Don’t miss posts by contributing editor Roland (aka Rollie) Johnson. Over the year’s Rollie’s tested countless tools for the magazine. His fascination with motors and gears goes beyond woodworking, hes also an enthusiastic hot-rodder who likes to restore old cars, and is the author of Automotive Woodworking (Motor Books International, 2002).

Contact us: Keep us in the loop on tool news or ideas for this blog. Email the editors at fw at taunton.com or “tweet” Rollie via Twitter at https://twitter.com/Toolwriter.

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Lack of Motivation

Another post ...at last!... Sadly again without in any real useful or interesting content.

Lately (as regular readers can probably tell), I have been lacking motivation in the wood working department - for a number of reasons.

Firstly, I dont have any wood around thats suitable for any of the things Id actually like to make - such as a tool chest. My Timber Investment is still drying out in the shed and wont really be ready for anything other than really rustic work and gardening projects for a little while and I am too tight to purchase more premium cost wood from the timber yard.

Secondly, in my quest to escape the timber merchant, I have been trying to process the raw billets of Oak and Walnut with a lot of frustration! While my little bench was fine for pre planed wood, its simply not man enough to handle the rough scrubbing of the billets down to usable dimensions. The poor thing racked so violently, it almost fell to pieces!

The base twisted so badly that the bottom shelf fell out and I swear the bench tried to escape from me by smashing through its supporting wall! Anyway, ... I will try and brace the bench up and bite the bullet and make it as low as possible to see if that helps with planing, while I try and ignore the obvious - Make a PROPER BENCH!

And I thought everybody was building Roubo benches just because they were just fashionable!

Lastly, being as OCD as I am, I find it really hard to obsess about more than a single topic of interest at any one time and lately that topic of interest has been gardening. The gardening obsession was born through my overall interest in Self Sufficiency, which in turn has led me back to wood working, albeit of a slightly different nature this time. As I have cut down a few small trees in the garden lately, I find myself staring at their small trunks and wondering if theres any usable wood inside...

I found a guy selling really cheap (less than £30 inc P&P) Froes on Ebay. Its not hand forged or anything fancy but its certainly good at its job. I really wish Id had this tool while in France playing with the Oak and Walnut logs. I carved a mallet for it from one of the small trees, to save my Beech chisel mallet from being ruined. I have also invested in a really nice Wetterlings hatchet, which is hand forged and lovely.

A Hook Knife is still on the shopping list.... Spoons, Bowls and Kuksas here I come!... And, you dont need a bench!

More to come...

Sunday, March 2, 2014

Mini Wood Lathe Projects Wooden Ideas

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Balsa Wood Glider Plans Wooden Ideas

balsa wood glider plans Building a - Flicka Balsa Glider - Pt.1 PDF Download

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Walls and floorings

The end result is well worth all the time and drive invested in it. Who lie with to puzzle out with our hands and complete interesting projects from scratch

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The Story of a Country Kitchen

I hope you had a wonderful Easter weekend. Today Im sharing our kitchen makeover. As usual, I debated on whether or not to share this since in my mind our kitchen isnt quite finished. (I always refer to our house as a "work in progress".) But the fact is it probably will stay like this for a while, because when you have an old house that needs work, its all about priorities!

The reason I decided to share this is because we actually did this makeover on a budget of $1000. I always feel like paint is the most affordable way to completely make over a room and painting kitchen cabinets are a perfect example. The other ways to affect a remodel on a budget are to be resourceful, use existing elements if possible, prioritize those things you feel are worth the extra money and finally, do the work yourself!

BEFORE:

This is how the kitchen looked when we did a walk-through on the house. Can you believe that I lived with it like this for almost a year? But it was almost exactly a year ago (I was 6 months pregnant at the time) that we were ready to tackle the kitchen!

Believe it or not, we did the majority of the work one Saturday. My daughter spent her first night away from home with her grandma and we worked all day and some of the night. I did all of the painting while Justus took care of trim work, light fixtures, and other time consuming details.

I had never painted cabinets before (in our previous house we purchased new cabinets when remodeling our kitchen) and I was very nervous. But there was really no reason to replace these cabinets. Sure, they were ugly, but these cabinets were as solid as could be, made with thick oak wood.

I visited our local Benjamin Moore store and they helpfully pointed me in the right direction as far as what kind of primer to purchase and a cabinet paint roller. The $6 for the cabinet paint roller was worth every penny! (smile) I originally wanted to use an oil-based primer, but since I was pregnant at the time, we went with latex. I painted one coat of primer and three coats of paint.

AFTER:

I used the same color for the cabinets and walls (Simply White by Benjamin Moore). Since our kitchen is on the small side, I knew white would not only brighten the space, but also make it appear larger.

If youve read about our butcher block countertops, then you know they are something I have always wanted. The warmth of wood looks beautiful with an all white palette. These countertops are my favorite thing in our kitchen. They were made by my husband and father-in-law from 100-year-old reclaimed barn wood (you can read more about them here).

We were fortunate that the countertops were essentially free since my father-in-law had the wood and tools needed to build the countertops on hand. The countertops are an example of being resourceful though... sometimes unique and lovely things can come about when you have to think outside the box.

BEFORE:

When we purchased our house, the original bead board was covered with foam tiles. Justus and I had no idea what the condition of the bead board would be in when he removed the tiles. He did the laundry room and kitchen at the same time and we were pleasantly surprised that although the bead board was covered in pealing old teal paint and had a few holes, it was in a salvageable condition. This was a very dirty project and Justus did it all himself since I was pregnant and we knew we were potentially dealing with lead-based paint. He shut off this section of the house for a day and wore a face mask when sanding and making repairs. He then added a coat of primer and a coat of paint before opening this section back up. I added three more coats of paint after that to ensure everything was sealed properly and would be for several more years.

AFTER:

By renovating the ceiling, we were able to raise the ceiling height by a good 4". This was a very positive thing since the back portion of our house originally was a porch (before there was such a thing as indoor plumbing) and has a lower ceiling height than the rest of the house. Justus added trim on top of the cabinets for a finished look.

The farmhouse sink is also original to the house and fortunately is in excellent condition. We did replace the faucet and spent about $200 on it I believe. I purchased the cabinet hardware off of Ebay for about 1/3 of the price of what we would have spent somewhere like Lowes. We also replaced the dishwasher.

The white bead board cabinet is something I found prior to purchasing our home and I use it for a pantry (you can read more about it here).

Later I purchased this wood piece at a local antiques store and I use it for extra storage since we have a limited number of cabinets. I love both pieces in the kitchen since I feel like they must have been made around the same time period as our house and the bead board gives a cohesive look.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

This view is looking into the laundry room and then a bathroom. Eventually well replace the floors in this portion of the house to match the rest of the downstairs. We left the walls as they were because the bead board behind didnt appear to be in good condition from what we could see and although this is a type of paneling, it is solid wood about 1/4" thick. And actually I feel like a little variation from bead board is okay... our entire house is bead board!

I found this farmhouse table for something like $40 and refinished it. We love this old table and even though were a little crowded, we usually eat our family meals here instead of the dining room.

Some day well replace the refrigerator and stove, but for now, these work fine.

Although our kitchen is by no means perfect, its cheerful, charming and the heart of our home. I dont feel like you have to spend a lot of money to bring about some major improvements. We have some ideas in mind for additional improvements, but with an old house, a budget, and limited time, you learn to prioritize home repair projects and be content until the time is right.

And although I do try to keep our kitchen clean and uncluttered, I have to be honest... I normally have a high chair with an occupant in one corner...

And my refrigerator is always packed with sweet artwork. (smile)

For fun, here is a list of what we purchased for our kitchen makeover with approximate prices:

- Paint $100

- Cabinet Roller $6

- Trim $75

- Faucet $200

- Cabinet Hardware $85

- Light fixtures and covers $150

- Dishwasher $400