Showing posts with label i. Show all posts
Showing posts with label i. Show all posts
Monday, March 3, 2014
I made a handout for Mondays demo
In this case, I will give you a handout so you can pay attention to the demo without taking notes. Please read before Mondays class. I will make copies for everyone.
Shannon Wright
Woodworking 168
Project 1: Sample Joints
We are using 5/4 (Five Quarter) Poplar boards, 16 feet long.
Milling Your Wood on the Jointer and Planer
What you need:
Starrett combination square (never drop one of these!!!)
Two jointer-specific push sticks
Key to unlock the jointer “on” switch
Pencil for marking
Safety glasses or face shield
1) Cut a 36” length of poplar on the radial arm saw. Let’s save all the 48” pieces that remain, for another project.
2) Use the combination square to “square up” the fence of the jointer.
3) Set the infeed table to remove between 1/32” and 1/16”.
4) Assess “grain runout pattern”, cup and bow of your piece of wood, and joint one face using two push sticks designed for the jointer.
5) Move your whole body with the wood—do not stand in a fixed location and lean forward.
6) Put the letter “j” in pencil on the jointed face so you can identify it later.
7) Joint one edge of your piece of wood, considering the grain runout pattern to avoid tearout. Keep your wood very tight against the fence and do not rock the wood. Mark it with a “j”.
8) Measure the thickness of your wood at each end and set the thickness planer to 1/16” less than the thickest dimension
9) With the jointed side down, assess the grain runout direction by looking at the edge of your board.
10) Place your wood, with the jointed side down, into the planer. You will need to give it a solid push to engage the infeed rollers. Remove your wood as the rollers feed it out the other side.
Ripping Your Wood on the Table Saw
What you need:
Rip blade
Push stick
Yellow anti-kickback roller
Phillips-head screwdriver
Table saw arbor wrench
Starrett combination square
Safety glasses or face shield
1) Check that the power is off at the circuit breaker
2) Remove the table saw insert, then remove the nut and washer from the saw arbor and put the rip blade on, with the teeth facing you, making sure not to bang the blade against metal.
3) Put the washer on and tighten the nut.
4) Replace the blade insert
5) Raise the blade as high as it will go, and place the Starrett square tight against the right side of the blade. If you see light at the top or the bottom, adjust the blade tilt wheel below until no light is visible. Lower the blade.
6) Bring your wood up against the blade to set the height of the blade. Raise or lower the blade until it is ¼” or one carbide tooth’s height above your wood.
7) Lock the lock knob on the blade-height adjustment wheel.
8) Bring the blade guard down over the blade.
9) Attach the yellow anti-kickback rollers to the mounting plate and tighten the screws with the Phillips-head screwdriver. It should be situated immediately behind the blade guard.
10) Pull the rip fence away from the blade to allow you to place your wood under the yellow anti-kickback device. Adjust the pressure until it puts up good resistance, but will not require excessive force to push your wood through.
11) Move the rip fence to set it at 3.5 or 4” (dependent on the width of your board.) To do this, loosen the lock lever, bump the fence over with the heel of your hand until the crosshair reads the desired number on the ruler. Lock the fence-lock lever.
12) Adjust the yellow anti-kickback device side-to-side until it is in approximately the middle of the intended cut. It MUST be located to the right of the blade, or it will defeat its purpose.
13) Remove all wrenches and tools from the work area
14) Turn on the power at the circuit breaker.
15) Put on a face shield or safety glasses.
16) Make your cut. Then cut another piece the same width with the remainder.
Proper Form When Ripping Wood on the Table Saw
Make sure no-one is standing or walking behind you.
Stand to the left of the rip fence and slightly to the left of your piece of wood.
Don’t focus your eyes on the blade, but on the juncture between your wood and the rip fence.
Direct solid pressure forward and into the fence.
Never take your hands off your piece of wood; it can and will kick back at you.
When the end of your piece of wood is fully on the table, you may pick up your push stick, without letting go of the wood.
Keep the push stick close to the rip fence and push your wood ALL THE WAY PAST THE BLADE. If you stop pushing before the wood is past the blade, your wood can and will kick back at you. The anti-kickback pawls on the “splitter” will catch your wood, but you don’t want to make them do their job.
Do not attempt to push the “scrap” piece (left-side piece) of wood past the blade. Only push the piece that is against the rip fence.
Do not allow fellow students to “help” you by pulling your wood through at the other end. You are the only one who should be performing this operation. Helpers cause misunderstandings and dangerous situations.
Turn off the saw as soon as you have pushed your wood through.
Let the blade come to a complete stop before collecting your wood.
Read More..
Shannon Wright
Woodworking 168
Project 1: Sample Joints
We are using 5/4 (Five Quarter) Poplar boards, 16 feet long.
Milling Your Wood on the Jointer and Planer
What you need:
Starrett combination square (never drop one of these!!!)
Two jointer-specific push sticks
Key to unlock the jointer “on” switch
Pencil for marking
Safety glasses or face shield
1) Cut a 36” length of poplar on the radial arm saw. Let’s save all the 48” pieces that remain, for another project.
2) Use the combination square to “square up” the fence of the jointer.
3) Set the infeed table to remove between 1/32” and 1/16”.
4) Assess “grain runout pattern”, cup and bow of your piece of wood, and joint one face using two push sticks designed for the jointer.
5) Move your whole body with the wood—do not stand in a fixed location and lean forward.
6) Put the letter “j” in pencil on the jointed face so you can identify it later.
7) Joint one edge of your piece of wood, considering the grain runout pattern to avoid tearout. Keep your wood very tight against the fence and do not rock the wood. Mark it with a “j”.
8) Measure the thickness of your wood at each end and set the thickness planer to 1/16” less than the thickest dimension
9) With the jointed side down, assess the grain runout direction by looking at the edge of your board.
10) Place your wood, with the jointed side down, into the planer. You will need to give it a solid push to engage the infeed rollers. Remove your wood as the rollers feed it out the other side.
Ripping Your Wood on the Table Saw
What you need:
Rip blade
Push stick
Yellow anti-kickback roller
Phillips-head screwdriver
Table saw arbor wrench
Starrett combination square
Safety glasses or face shield
1) Check that the power is off at the circuit breaker
2) Remove the table saw insert, then remove the nut and washer from the saw arbor and put the rip blade on, with the teeth facing you, making sure not to bang the blade against metal.
3) Put the washer on and tighten the nut.
4) Replace the blade insert
5) Raise the blade as high as it will go, and place the Starrett square tight against the right side of the blade. If you see light at the top or the bottom, adjust the blade tilt wheel below until no light is visible. Lower the blade.
6) Bring your wood up against the blade to set the height of the blade. Raise or lower the blade until it is ¼” or one carbide tooth’s height above your wood.
7) Lock the lock knob on the blade-height adjustment wheel.
8) Bring the blade guard down over the blade.
9) Attach the yellow anti-kickback rollers to the mounting plate and tighten the screws with the Phillips-head screwdriver. It should be situated immediately behind the blade guard.
10) Pull the rip fence away from the blade to allow you to place your wood under the yellow anti-kickback device. Adjust the pressure until it puts up good resistance, but will not require excessive force to push your wood through.
11) Move the rip fence to set it at 3.5 or 4” (dependent on the width of your board.) To do this, loosen the lock lever, bump the fence over with the heel of your hand until the crosshair reads the desired number on the ruler. Lock the fence-lock lever.
12) Adjust the yellow anti-kickback device side-to-side until it is in approximately the middle of the intended cut. It MUST be located to the right of the blade, or it will defeat its purpose.
13) Remove all wrenches and tools from the work area
14) Turn on the power at the circuit breaker.
15) Put on a face shield or safety glasses.
16) Make your cut. Then cut another piece the same width with the remainder.
Proper Form When Ripping Wood on the Table Saw
Make sure no-one is standing or walking behind you.
Stand to the left of the rip fence and slightly to the left of your piece of wood.
Don’t focus your eyes on the blade, but on the juncture between your wood and the rip fence.
Direct solid pressure forward and into the fence.
Never take your hands off your piece of wood; it can and will kick back at you.
When the end of your piece of wood is fully on the table, you may pick up your push stick, without letting go of the wood.
Keep the push stick close to the rip fence and push your wood ALL THE WAY PAST THE BLADE. If you stop pushing before the wood is past the blade, your wood can and will kick back at you. The anti-kickback pawls on the “splitter” will catch your wood, but you don’t want to make them do their job.
Do not attempt to push the “scrap” piece (left-side piece) of wood past the blade. Only push the piece that is against the rip fence.
Do not allow fellow students to “help” you by pulling your wood through at the other end. You are the only one who should be performing this operation. Helpers cause misunderstandings and dangerous situations.
Turn off the saw as soon as you have pushed your wood through.
Let the blade come to a complete stop before collecting your wood.
Tuesday, February 11, 2014
I Want a Welding Mask
My son has been after me for over a year to buy him a welding mask. Every time were in Lowes he asks.
Last weekend while we were driving to Lowes it finally occured to him that Im not buying him one because he doesnt need one. His 6 year old mind started to crunch the situation and just as the steam began to emerge from his ears, he declared that we needed a pretend torch (he knows hes not allowed to have a real one). Once he had a torch, he figured he would then need a welding mask. As Im always one for toys, a pretend torch was an idea I could get behind (even if it wouldnt get him a mask).
Once we got to Lowes I spent a good half hour wondering around the plumbing section coming up with a pretend torch design. I finally settled on copying my personal soldering torch.
Heres how we made it:
I used a section of 3" PVC pipe as the tank. I glued a flat "temporary cap" to the bottom. The top is a standard PVC end cap.
Before gluing the top on, I drilled a hole in it, expanded the hole with a file and slid in the hose. A small length of dowel keeps the base of the hose rigid and two hose clamps above and below the PVC cap keep the hose in place.
For the torch head, I used some 1/2" copper pipe. I used relative dimensioning to size it against my real torch, and I actually got to use my real torch when soldering the pretend one together.
The 1/2" copper fits inside the end of the hose, and two more hose clamps keep it in place. Black electrical tape acts as a grip and keeps the hose clamps from scratching little hands.
Since I built it, the pretend torch has gotten lots of use from all three boys. For some reason though, it hasnt led to needing a mask yet.
Do you pretend in your shop?
P.s. - please excuse if this is formatted oddly. Its my first attempt blogging from the new Blogger application for Android.
Tuesday, February 4, 2014
I bought a new router table!
I borrowed my brothers router table back in June of 2012 to build the hall tree. It is a beginners Ryobi table. You can pick them up for $99 at Home Depot and it comes with a router. He moved a couple of moths later and I asked him if he wanted me to bring it with me when I helped him move and he said no. I then offered to bring it at Christmas and he said no. Hes come to my house a few times and declined to take it with him. If I offer to give you your tool back 8 times and you decline then I stop asking. So last week out of the blue I get a text message asking if I have his router so of course I said yes. We met for lunch yesterday and he totally forgot that he was supposed to pick it up until I went and took it out of my car. Long story short, I had to go buy a new router, router table, and router bits. I was sorely tempted to pick up the $99 table like my brothers but I think that I have progressed enough in my wookworking skills to warrant a better table. I have a Lowes and a Home depot both near my house so I went and took a look at both places. I finally decided on the Ryobi table and router because of price, size, and construction. The Skil table looks cool but didnt feel very sturdy because of the folding legs. The Ryobi table is also much longer which may be good or bad as I might have to build a small table for it.
Read More..
Here is the old table that I had to give back. I was perfectly happy using this table and was sorely tempted to just buy another one like it.
This is the Skil table at Lowes
And the basic router to fit in it.
Here is the table that I bought for $99. It is much longer and feels sturdier.
This is the Ryobi router that I bought for $59 to put in the table. I plan on just leaving it in there full time and buying a plunge router later.
This is a basic 15 bit set that I picked up for $59.
Tuesday, January 28, 2014
They Told Me To Get A Grip So I Got A Comfortable One
Being a newbie at these hand tools, I always think that it is me that is doing something wrong when I use a new tool and it doesn’t live up to my expectations.
My Veritas 15” Low Angle Jack Plane is a great example. I received it as a gift a few years back and was happier than a pig in poo because it was something I really wanted. The day after I received it I had to plane a number of edges on some 2 x 6’s for a deck I was building. To be honest, I was never more disappointed in something as I was with this plane. It cut beautifully, had very little tear-out, and was a dream to set up. After planning about 160’ of stock, though, my thumb and wrist were as sore as I’ll get out. Having done the same amount of stock the previous weekend with my Stanley No.6, I had a niggling in the back of my mind that it was the tote, but lack of experience caused me to blame myself, rather than the tool.
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| The Veritas 15" Low Angle Jack Plane with the replacement tote. |
I can’t tell you how happy I was when I read an article Chris Schwarz wrote in his Popular Woodworking blog about a fellow who was creating and selling replacement totes for Veritas’ planes. It was like I had been found innocent of tax evasion when I read the first line; “The only complaint I ever hear about the Veritas bevel-up planes is that the rear tote isn’t as comfortable as that on an old Stanley or new Lie-Nielsen plane.”
After reading the article I hit the link Chris had posted and sent Bill Rittner off an email asking for some pricing and what stock was available. I got the answers, and as I was busy with one thing or another at the time, I put it on my “to get” list.
Cruising eBay a few weeks ago, I ran across a listing for Veritas replacement totes. At first I thought it was some the same person and was a little taken back by the difference in prices. I was looking at a huge spread here. Comparing Chris’ article with the eBay listing, I realized the totes were by different makers. I sent the maker, Mike, an email asking a few questions and got an immediate reply that hit all the right notes.
I immediately ordered the eBay version.
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| It doesnt take long to see the difference between the stock Veritas tote (left) and Mikes replacement. |
Naturally, price was a major driving force in this decision, but there was more to it than that.
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| These line drawings quickly size up the situation between the two totes. Mikes version (in green) has a far better angle of attack than the stock version. |
Type of wood
The tote I got from Mike was made out of Bubinga, which matches the stock knob that came with my plane (post 2003 model). I really like the knob and didn’t really want to replace it.
Bill makes his knobs and totes out of Cherry and Walnut, sold in sets. While I love these two woods, it boils down to not wanting to discard the Veritas knob. While Bill’s knobs are nice, they are not as near as beefy as the stock model, so I felt what I gained on the tote, I’d loose on the knob.
Design
The design of the tote was a major point. Mike states his totes are based on the Stanley No.5 tote design while Bill didn’t state what his was based on. When I looked at Mike’s pictures of his tote, I thought it was a Stanley replacement at first. When I looked at Bill’s, while it is far smoother and sexier than any Stanley tote has ever been or ever will be, it is a long way from the familiar design. The thing is, I like Stanley totes. They are comfortable and well balanced, but then given my reaction to the Veritas tote the first time I used it, what the hell do I know.
Mounting
One of the major deciding factors that swung me over to Mike’s tote was the way it mounts. The original Veritas tote has two mounting screws, which Mike stays true to. Bill, on the other hand, favours just using one of them. While the way Veritas mills the tote to accommodate the screws bugs the hell out of me (see the image with caption below), I have always thought the double screw was a great idea. How many old Stanley’s have you seen with the front edge of the tote torn because of that silly little hump in the casting?
Price (of course)
The ready for finishing bubinga tote I got from Mike was $16 plus shipping.
The quote I got from Bill was $40 for a finished set.
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| Not only did Mike stay true to Veritas design of using two mounting screws, he even set the counter sink for the screws heads in the same manner as Veritas. The fact that they are not flush with the top surface of the tote drives me mad, mad I tell ya! |
While I haven’t held one of Bill’s examples in my hand as yet, I will say that the quality of Mike’s work is quite amazing, even at four times the 16 bucks. The lines are very crisp and the surface is ready for finishing.
I have a slowly growing pile of tool parts that I plan to French polish and that is exactly what this tote deserves.
If you are interested, you can send Mike an email using this link,
or go to his eBay Store to find his listings.
or go to his eBay Store to find his listings.
Peace,
Mitchell
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