Showing posts with label and. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

What purpose does woodworking still serve in modern art and craft

What purpose does fine woodworking, whether you insist it "art" or "craft", still serve in the modern, after-Warhol, post-internet world?
From a strictly engineering/manufacturing point of view, objects of cut and assembled wood serve a niche function. For many applications -home building, cabinets, etc.- woo is inexpensive, durable, and light enough to be the best material. Sure there are more space age materials which could be used to make far more durable cabinets and better insulated walls, but wood (and the labor required to shape it) are often far cheaper. But this niche no longer covers products that are far easier to construct in newer materials. At one time toolboxes were universally made of hardwood, but today almost anyone can buy a cheep toolbox to fit their specific needs, built of plastic, aluminum, or steel and as a result being much lighter and stronger than any wood duplicate. Indeed, as materials technology continues to make lighter/stronger materials more cheaply, the engineering niche wherein wood is the best material will keep shrinking.
Related to this is also the psychology wooden objects bring to bear. Wood, in its texture and appearance, appeals to a great many people. For thousands of years, the heft, feel (and smell) of carved hardwoods have been associated with wealth. And interiors constructed of polished wood often have a calming effect on their inhabitants. Products made of wood appeal to people in a way that increases their value (even when using another material might be more logical).
And of course the act of working with wood or owning it, connects one to all those who have come before him who have done the same. Woodworking appeals in its ability to place each of us (lone individual forms of protoplasm) within a greater sense of history and culture.
But in a world where all art is going to be instantly given copious connections and references the moment it is shown (try placing an image of a sculpture on the internet that will not evoke dozens of comparisons and links to remotely related work), is it now ever necessary to use a material to relate to the past again? And in an era in which sarcasm or irony in a work seems an essential, is making an object out of honest, undisguised wood inappropriate. Today it seems far more apt to make something out of steel that carefully counterfeits wood-grain, or make wood that is smoothed and painted to resemble clean enamel.
Can one still create a modern art-piece out of wood?

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

Tray in Curly Ash Walnut and Cherry

This functional piece is available in various woods and can be sized to meet your needs.

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Stenciling Tips And Instructions

Stenciling is an art that doesnt require too much equipment and too much material. It is very cost friendly. It is an art that caters to almost all ages. Children, teens and adults can design their own stencils. Moreover, children can create their stencils using the patterns of older people. Stencil designs tell the character of a person. Stencil artists choose their materials and equipment according to the project that they are working on.

Stencil materials and equipment are readily available in stores. Choosing the right material and equipment is very important to ensure a quality project. Nonetheless, it is important that an individual knows what to do before dwelling in stenciling. Stenciling steps are very easy. Here are some steps to follow when you decide to do a stencil project.

1.) Clean the façade that will be stenciled. Be sure that is properly prepared and has no shedding paint. Use a chalk when marking a line. Pencils are hard to erase and may smudge on the surface. Use a masking tape when attaching a stencil.

2.) When constructing a border stencil on a room wall, start opposite corner facing the door.

3.) Acrylic paint- wet the brush into the paint and wipe off most of the paint in a paper. Too much paint will give the pattern shabby edges.

4.) When attaching the stencil to any surface, make sure that you leave no space where paint can seep in. When using masking tape or scotch tape, push the stencil tightly and make sure that it doesnt come off.

5.) Different colors come in different time. The color with the lightest shade should be applied first. Dry the first color first before applying another color.

6.) Use an up and down stippling motion when applying the paint.

7.) Begin applying paint on the outside of the stencils.

8.) Use very clean brush and stencils to avoid problems.

9.) Too much paint will damage the stencil pattern.

10.) Clean the stencil frequently in hot water with soap.
11.) Check the back of the stencil for any paint marks.
12.) Shed off the paint from the brush.
13.) Soak stencils and brushes in turpentine.

When using fabric, wash the fabric first to remove softener and size. Softener and size makes the paint sticks to the coating. Put the stencil normally. Put some extra masking tape on the sides of the stencil.

Wear a mask to avoid exhaling too much of the aroma of the paint that will use. Too much paint may affect your health. Never ever leave materials that are soaked in turpentine in the open. These materials can catch fire if they are left unattended.

There are different kinds of stenciling but almost all of these kinds follow the instructions and tips that were mentioned above. Observing cleanliness and accuracy are traits that an individual need to succeed in stenciling. Being prepared with the materials and equipment are also necessary. An individual must not venture into stenciling when she doesnt have the complete requirements.

Stenciling is a very delicate art. It requires outmost concentration and dedication. It is an art that talks about intricate details and accuracy. Many people have succeeded in capturing and mastering the art of stenciling. It is up to an individual if he will regard stenciling as his passion or merely a hobby.

Thursday, February 6, 2014

march 17 and then it was spring

winters over here as of today ... bluebirds are back in the yard, buzzards are back, ducks are back, 70 degrees today, the convertible top was down, fire in the sky, and its only the middle of march. what next tomorrow? hummingbirds? golf? maybe on the golf, another month at least until hummingbirds ... peace ...

great sunset on peters peak

Contributing Articles at Houzz and Infarrantly Creative

Today Im at Infarrantly Creative sharing how I made a wood tiled top for a metal table out of driftwood.

Make sure to stop by and take a look! I LOVE how it came out!!

Also, SO excited to share that Im now a contributor at Houzz! For my first article, I shared how to make Greek Key pillow shams. From now on, Ill be sharing mostly original DIYs, so be on the lookout for those!

DIY: Make a Designer-Look Pillow Sham

General contractors, home builders, and more ∨

When decorating or building a home, dont forget about the walls.
Search for fun counter stools, clocks, sectionals and storage dressers to spice up your basement.

Click here to check out my latest article.

Saturday, February 1, 2014

Guide woodworking plans potato and onion bin

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Woodworking Plans Potato And Onion Bin

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woodworking ideas to make and sell

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Woodworking Ideas To Make And Sell

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Thursday, January 30, 2014

woodworking tips and ideas

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Sunday, January 26, 2014

Rigor Mortise and Tenon

I added that last bit of the skirt the other day. It went on with no problems and was just a matter of gluing the tongue and dovetails and clamping it up. Because of the length of the benchtop it required my longest pipe clamps to be supplemented with additional Pony clamps. I dont like doing this because the tension along the axis of the clamp is always a little offset where the clamps meet. Not a big deal in this situation but there are times when it is potentially a little dangerous.

I then went ahead and installed the two vises. Im afraid I didnt photo-document this part. I blame this on the frustration level involved in the tail vise: it uses two little steel guide-ring bushings that truly tested my patience. They really improve the performance of the vise but my word, they were a pain to install. At one point I was tempted to go blow $50 on a right-angle impact driver (Yes, I own the JobMax. Yes, its a great tool) specifically for the task. Must resist impulses to buy tools for one-time needs. In the end I got the SOB installed and am pleased with it. It really reduces the amount of play in the vise. The face vise doesnt have the guide bushings and has a remarkable amount of play in it. *sigh*

Completed benchtop:

Well, kind of completed: the general construction is done but there is plenty of detailing to do.

Then I flipped it over to start work on the leg assembly. One nice thing about traditional woodworking vises is that you can use them upside-down! Not an asset 99% of the time but it was nice here. This picture reminds me of the expression "building a plane in midair:"

I just thought of something: this project makes extensive use of the three types of joints: butt, corner, and angle. The floating tongues were butt joints, the ostrichtails were corner joints, and now time for the mortise and tenons. There are 16 of them total in the undercarriage: 8 blind and 8 through. I dont really enjoy busting these guys out. There is just too much chopping with the chisel. Its loud and tiring. I cut a few tenons by hand and then decided to just go with the bandsaw. I feel Ive put in my time cutting tenons with the ryoba, dont particularly enjoy it, and Im not especially good at it. As I mentioned before, this is my last project with the Japanese saws, so farewell big ryoba:

Big, chunky joints; but darn if they arent solid.

I was joking with my mother-in-law about "the next workbench I plan to build." I was kidding, but this picture does suggest a man who needs even more space, doesnt it?

Among handtool aficionados its trendy to refer to power tool use as "burning electrons." Ill tell you what, it takes a lot of red-ox reactions to complete a mortise through a 2" thick piece of maple. My body is killing me from all the work today. Heres the result:

(FYI: trashcan o shavings II went out to the curb yesterday, as did an empty 50lb. dog food bag stuffed full of dust)

The next step is to complete the tapered mortises through those projecting tenons and make wedges to secure the legs longitudinally. I know that may not be clear but youll understand when it is complete. The goal is to have a really solid bench but be able to dis-assemble it if needed. I dont plan on moving in the next couple of years but Im sure it will be appreciated when I do. Why the quick-clamp in the photo? Yeah, I had a little blow-out on my last M&T. Did I mention I dont enjoy mortise and tenon joinery?